![]() ![]() While it could be done, it would be the least "preferred" option. The local machine shop said they would definitely take my money but recommended I look at other options. While 0.060 is the Ford limit, a sonic check will tell you the wall thickness. There are roller lifters which will work in an FE engine, but given that you are on a budget, it may not be worth the extra cost. ![]() When you build your engine: 1) make sure to prelube the cam very well 2) use a ZDDP additive to the engine oil 3) follow you cam manufacturer's break in procedure. People have had this happen multiple times on the same engine, it would have been very unusual back 15 or 20 years ago, but it seems to happen all the time now. When this happens the engine must be removed and disassembled again to clean out all the metal flakes. The internet has been filled with many tales of woe about cam and lifter failures in the first 200 miles after rebuilding an engine. Also it seems that some manufacturers have forgotten how important tight tolerances and good surface harness is for these old flat tappet systems. ZDDP is very important to flat tappet camshafts. You need to know that motor oil has been reformulated to remove ZDDP commonly called "zinc". I don't know the manufacturers, but buy one from a reputable manufacturer and from a solid vendor. With regard to the cam, a common upgrade is the "RV" grind which provides a bit more low end torque (presumably to motivate a big heavy recreational vehicle). Standard bore for a 390 is 4.05", standard stroke is 3.78" (A 360 will have a 3.5" stroke) A lot of F150s had 360 engines, so you may want to double check the bore and stroke to confirm it is a 390. FT engines were used on bigger commercial trucks, and it would be a problem because the crank snout is bigger and it wouldn't fit the belt driven stuff. ![]() In that case, I will just go to the tried and true Holley.įirst, An F-150 from 1970 would have an FE motor. I really want FI, but it may turn out to just be too much (fuel line runs, electric pump wiring, tank outlet welding, ect ect). I'm looking into an ignition system and possible TB fuel injection. I absolutely want to keep the budget (so nothing super expensive), but would like to wake it up a bit. I have been told that the a nice mild CAM can really improve this motor, but I have no idea what to look for. I'm looking for some suggestions on a CAM and springs. It may hone out and then 0.003 oversized rings, but probably not and I will need to go 0.030 over. I found some light vertical scratches on 2 cylinders. I'm still digging into things to try and determine how far I need to go. I have found a nice 4bbl stock intake I will be using ($28 at the local wrecker. I believe to actually be a 390 FT block from a 1970 "F" series truck (guessing an F-150 due to the 2bbl carb). Its not an original engine and was swapped in at some point. I have begun the rebuild of the 390 in my 66. I know you can port this, deck that, cam this, holley that and get a 400+ HP tire burner. I'm not looking to build an engine for the most horsepower. ![]()
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